_**`Gears of war 3 Wall bounce [default]**_
It’s important to remember: The Left stick moves character the Right stick moves camera. Back-Forward w/your left stick will allow you to create a wall cancel that propels you more forward then side when you are centered already in the middle center of walls, aiming to transition & stay in the middle of those 2 walls. Why? b/c every time you get off the middle location of the 2 adjacent walls, your character has to move more to the side then forward, to re-position to align back in the middle location again to benefit from a fast wall cancel that propels you forward more and not favoring one wall from the other which results in a transition more towards a wall which means a cancel more to the side not forward; and you may need to have a slow transition again, moving one of your sticks more to get back aligned in the middle. In the middle, so you know that your direction is going to result in you moving forward more before canceling & w/out a doubt allowing you to benefit from wall-cancels that moves you forward faster to the end of halls or walls. Your wall-bounce will reach the same speeds side to side when moving any of your stick’s side to side any amount over on your thumb-stick’s that’s past or too far side to side that make’s you going too far from middle or aiming towards middle, being at 2 adjacent walls, before pressing A to Aim there or by having your wall cancel’s after pressing A propels you too far off center; again in the middle of 2 adjacent walls. Conclusion? make sure your in the middle before pressing A and do your wall cancels in the middle. To reach the ends of walls faster, which is ideal, ( if you have no reason not to ) than only move Left stick microscopic amount any side direction on the thumbstick while held all the way up, (sometimes it’s more noticeable or can be but in all situation’s the word to describe it, is microscopic b/c it never really feels different but in microscopic amounts, to have this ideal effect happen) & Rt stick only moved when needed to make your alignment in the middle & Because Left stick gets registered faster than Rt stick, b/c Left stick doesn’t have to move as long & far to the side before registering as a wall-cancel (if you want proof of this see how different & hard it is in closer corridors as opposed wider… that is having up held on left stick w/no microscopic side to side on left stick but instead on right stick. see how slower the wall cancel’s are. see how much more side direction is needed as opposed little side to side while up is held on your left stick and no side to side on Rt stick, or just when needed. This proves the previous statement about left & right stick difference.) Thus your either gonna want to include left stick in microscopic amounts to side. ‘POSITIONING YOUR TRANSITION’ in the ‘middle’ AHEAD of time before pressing A. Just like your outlook should be w/the Rt stick 'something used to prepare propelling angles ahead of time. Yes you can go all the way up w/no amount of side to side w/Left stick, but your wall-canceling is going to be slower if you don’t add a little left stick side to side, or better yet as a rule of thumb; no side to side at all, but a back forward w/no back-side motion, in any amount either.
As a recap, You can do this ideal way of wall-bounce again, by slight side while forward motion on left thumbstick, only moving Rt to get you aligned only, using little side to side for both sticks to prepare for alignment before pressing A which should be in the middle alignment position, moving stick side fast or wall-canceling fast with backwards-forward no side direction, on left stick fast to maintain alignment; but never just complete up with no backwards on left stick, with any amount side to side on Rt stick only, since that stick registers slower b/c it’s not the defining factor(the left stick is) of what’s obtained before pressing A. (you know what your left stick is doing/where is it at). You also can use middle alignment, but use character to ‘camera ratio’ to end up more to the left or right side, of 2 adjacent walls from the middle alignment reference point. That middle alignment can adjust to not have character to camera ratio looking straight ahead in front of the middle but your sticks are gonna have to adjust to move more to one side of idle placement to also moving/staying relatively in that same side of joysticks side in order to have walls match characters facing angle’s or middle alignment: this results in character staying more to one side of the halls; and because of Right hand advantage, the left side using the middle as a reference point will get you down a hall faster forward while the right side, will faster backwards; because right hand advantage with the addition of being more right has transitions towards the middle shortened, while pulling your character or adjusting your character or positioned to not get the angle needed to go more forward on the right side; however it’s the opposite on the left side.
You’ll also, get the most out of the wall transition before wall canceling which is bad b/c the longer you stay in wall transition before you wall-cancel, your speed slows down by the time you start the transition to the time you end it, which is why you want to end it with a wall-cancel at the start of it; & you want alignment at all times ( alignment where your in the middle of adjacent walls, or more to the left, using the middle as a reference. ) so you can benefit always from fast wall-cancels the whole way through w/out either going slower to get back in middle alignment or having a 2 or more propelling direction more angled to the side, out of alignment just b/c it happened once, thus making a more stationary side as opposed forward propel before wall-cancel. Plus not on the right side of the middle of alignments, reference point b/c of shortened forward propels.
You want it vice versa and honestly your best bet results in a back-forward motion only as opposed any amount of side motion w/the left stick, or in diagonal motions so as stated before, you can end up more within the left side of the wall as opposed to right to not be hindered by ‘right hand advantage’. And yes back-forward is ideal b/c your always going potentially forward, with pressing A so you can therefore & only need a back motion to wall-cancel in all situations, so yes forward hold all the way up and back-forward to cancel is ideal (unless for some reason not) w/left stick. The only situation really to point out is when it would be best to not. which is when forward direction is blocked or closed up and you want to be stationary side to side in wall-bounce as opposed forward, you still want to make wall-cancels fast b/c its always best but in close corridors which if in this situation, your probably in anyways; if you don’t have cancel fast then the difference is seen more as it results in you having to do it fast or get stuck or not do what’s ideal. For example, what’s ideal to move in-between all the pews in church on mercy’s map is when in-between 1 side before the cut off split to the next side: you move fast in the middle then either get the distance of a longer held wall transition before wall-canceling before doing the same thing fast again b/c you can, or do it all fast with just as fast held wall transitions before the cancel by using back-forward, when reaching the split between each 2 pews to use the split and thus starting point end of the next wall to wall-cancel fast & reach the other ally created by the next 2 set pair of pews. Personally when you reach the middle split of the 4, 2 set of pews, you can do what I like doing sometimes: no back-forward at all but a far side motion with your thumbstick to reach that box in the church of mercy; which makes another reason to use side motions on your left stick, to obtain a separate obstacle to maneuver to and wall-bounce.** Similar, if any movement can be used for a cancel how much more will running before or after strafing or wall bouncing? So keep this pattern in mind; the Hold A once in the middle of alignment of 2 walls, then A for a transition or strafe. In addition to changing speeds & movements, getting you from ‘0 to 100’ faster into the start of a sequence; quick roadie runs, can be used to cancel the attachment limit that happens when you are in the middle of 2 walls, that has ends closer than your max transition reached if they were equal or further away; resulting in you only transitioning to these ends or rolling. So a quick roadie run gets a new potential sequence started w/a more distance achieved away from previous potential wall bounce transitional line sequence, and closer to start another potential wall bounce transitional line sequence resulting in further apart sequences. (a sequence has to do with max transitions and attachment limit of 2 walls in mind)
Notes & Key-Notes:
A distinct wall transition noise can be heard when you successfully wall cancel, this may help to listen so you can only press A after you hear it, unless off coarse, your need or want and thus are pressing it too fast, for the sound to be heard separately distinct: an example of where it can be helpful to wall bounce slow enough to quickly get across the end of wall[s] is in between the pews created ally in the church of mercy’s map… sometimes it’s better to get across to the other end of a whole wall piece instead of the adjacent wall, and sometimes one makes up for the other, although both is ideal… to either be fast then slow to get across; ‘let’s say’ to the other 2 set of pews separation in mercy’s church. You can be fast in wall cancel’s even at this point however, by finding a way to get across to separated walls w/out rolling. (for instance using the whole ends of the next pews to get to the other side’s ally caused by the next 2 adjacent pews)
move left thumbstick all the way back or all the way forward; [you can do both b/c sometimes you need to but when your not in a scenario where it’s needed don’t do it b/c you have to move it more to do the same thing, which makes it slower, unless you can still reach the max speed the game will allow from doing both as a rule of thumb] when moving it side to side you just need it slightly past neutral resting position, unless the camera angle to character position requires an all the way side direction on the thumbstick; (this is all b/c of ‘middle alignment’, & acquiring it to benefit from fast cancel’s that don’t sacrifice forward momentum) however b/c it’s possible you want a criteria that keeps the thumbstick in a direction that is needed for just 1 scenario, and works for others & thus works for all; in this case the ideal position is to always have the left thumbstick all the way up in between wall cancels from back-forward direction, or having the side to side motion be part of the wall cancels & thus always have left thumbstick up at the same time. Back-Forward motion added on left stick believe it or not results in faster cancels however, when added in addition to exact directional way you end up doing on thumb sticks, or in other words, the way you wall bounce; your character when ending up more left or right or back from the middle of neutral resting point or the center of screen , you’ll reach further transitional distances; with back-forward motion giving the speed, as well if your character just so happens to end up that way. Why? b/c in addition of being or facing forward & the game registering you as if your always in the center of screen anyways. Your naturally moving forward just from pressing A, and Now when you hold it all the way up which also is A way to have half of what it takes to accomplish a wall-cancel accomplished already; and that is 2 opposing directions to achieve a wall-cancel. It only makes sense that back-forward directional on left stick makes you wall-cancel faster; b/c once it’s moved back your already achieving the opposing direction, to cancel, from natural set forward momentum, set from the ‘get go’ and Back wards on left thumb stick will always cause a wall cancel or can, no matter what angle you go into a wall.
The Game has your characters position registered in the center of camera, so the farther away from the center screen, your character ends up, the more ground will be covered when wall transitioning from the time it happened till the next wall which by that time will have your character actually center screen; as 1x gets carried over into next making it a total of 2x where you’re characters position is off center just b/c of it happening 1x before wall transitioning making the camera to character ratio not as in sync, which in turn has the effects of the characters position before last till the 2nd wall transition/cancel after… unless by the 2nd transition you hit/touch the wall before then. To do This, something of this nature described: bounce close to a wall to get a far transition from that close proximity reached by this close transition; in hopes to get your character far from center screen to be ready to reach that far different angled walls or adjacent, but to then have it back to previous neutral or normal position or transitional distance until you do it again; ideally on 2 different angled walls. When you touch a wall then step back, you do something I call a body bounce, from a wall which will in turn help in changing the way your character is facing/positioned, and makes it harder to roll right after it’s done, because that is another way to have the A button for roll not register for a split second, that delay causing your character to be ‘off centered facing’ can help aide in having your characters facing direction changed more when changing camera angles. the closer you get to a wall in wall transition/bounce executions, the greater the potential to have a changed camera angle change characters off centeredness position. when getting close to the wall in a the middle of a transition move your camera to the other side holding it in that direction; this is how you utilize a spinning camera to help aide in the characters facing direction, keep it spinning in one direction to do a circle bounce to help also; do a circle bounce in the middle of separate walls, & separate angle walls besides adjacent ones too, to see how your character changes positions and where he glides to.
To ‘Suction Bounce’ ( bouncing w/a character-ratio position facing backwards while moving forward ) you acquire it when changing your character to camera ratio around and ‘drawing’ some help from a body bounce(es); then once the wall helps you start out facing backwards going forward, you then can have that angle until you bounce back around: every time you turn around you want to body bounce using a wall to maintain the backwards facing going forward placement, or just use a quick 360 degree to have and start from that angle - character ratio, until you rotate again having to do the same thing. To wall bounce backwards facing forward its acquired by having long or far movement(s) on joystick(s) to propel more side to side rather forward. [go to next paragraph for more on this]
moving both right and left sticks in the same direction or at the same time or vice versa in the opposite directions &/or at the same time, has no significance. And when Moving down or side to side on your thumb sticks, you only have to hold it [in itself] at a specific location and/or at specific duration, to have your ‘character to camera angles’ different or changed, which only changes what your character is doing during wall bouncing/transitions, and the speed at which your character changes the direction he faces during wall bouncing. also sometimes the left thumb stick in itself needs to be held over towards the wall sometimes to prevent you from rolling, in some character to camera angle ratio scenarios: like when the camera is far facing away from desired wall; only use a long hold on this thumbstick in this scenario, b/c if your camera is far facing away from wall then In a sense, what’s going on is you have the Right thumbstick held at a position for a long duration so you need the opposite stick; the left, to keep your character sliding/transitioning towards that wall and also so he can reach the end, & fight the pull caused by your camera so far from facing desired wall. (this was about separated walls and camera angles really far needing the same amount or greater w/opposite stick, by a far side/&/or hold direction to avoid a certain wall, & transition to another…) Also in gears 3, you move left thumbstick, sometimes in order to get into a wall transition from far away angles as a requirement, however this time you need to go far with one direction on 1 thumbstick then you need to go fast for fast cancels and slow for slow cancels after these far to the side motions on either stick, mandatory unless your moving opposite direction w/opposite stick. These far to the side motions have to be performed once all the time now if you don’t want to lessen the transitional distance and if you don’t want to any transition to just cause a break/stop in transition, & thus have you have to have a different pattern needed or else you’ll roll. So if you’re gonna move stick far you better move it far to the opposite side, unless it’s the opposite stick which works too. Now back to gears in general; You can also have scenarios, where all that’s needed is for you to change the camera angle timed right to bounce outside of the church in mercy’s map & into the hall way in the middle of a wall bounce, for example. Unless if in closed, or blocked off forward directional walls, or to get to the box from middle pews in mercy’s church… a separate direction from back-forward on thumbstick needed; like speaking of middle alignment as a reference point for left side or unless otherwise… use it. How to wall-bounce backwards while facing forward? Side to side motions on the thumb stick after moving backwards even a little, gets you to the sides of an ally more & shortens the forward direction, & can get no forward direction too… but now we’re on to something… is wall-bouncing backwards obtained by moving both sticks far side to side & including the back-forward motion on left stick but only moving it back to the forward position of ‘said’ thumb sticks neutral resting position, so you don’t roll, but not completely forward, but just neutral (in neutral position/area of whole left stick) also at a diagonal from moving it backwards, and like I said not all the way up? Yes that’s it. Move both sticks far side to side w/no all the way up position reached w/left thumb stick in other words. or also by a fast forward-back directional switch on left thumbstick but a slow back-forward switch; b/c that’s like I said in next paragraph, but now clarify w/more detail; will result in a less forward propel forward: holding it in back direction longer/thus slower, before switching over to the up position on left thumb stick
part of the reason you need to keep the left thumbstick up, is because the game registers walking at the same time to cancel any rolling from happening & propels you more forward. So while continue moving or walking back and forward you can still have the back, up motion on your thumbstick, b/c even you walking lessens the probability of you rolling, when pressing A.
You want the thumb stick up during the switching over to other walls in wall bounces, b/c you transitions are going to propel you forward more gaining you access to further distances, when needed. You don’t want to do backwards then forward on the left thumbstick slow, b/c your gonna just go faster side to side on your screen because your cutting the distance acquired forward, and going more stationary distance to the sides of the adjacent walls, moving more backwards a little, but yet having the characters appearance thus changing his facing faster at the same time acquiring the same speed side to side you can if you had the left stick only up; but w/the difference of your character having a ‘boing’ more in towards the camera and out direction with shorten transitions, but faster character facing appearance changed on your camera only, but not the onlooker. It looks slower or more stationary w/just the same speed side to side, and at most even though your characters facing speed is changed faster to you, at most the same is seen by the onlooker, unless for some reason one way is easier than the other. Now Should we ever use backwards forward w/the left thumbstick? yes because this doesn’t happen… the ‘no distance is cut short thing’ if you do it fast enough. How do we know if we’re doing it fast enough? The back up motion needed to quickly turn around w/out bouncing & w/out rolling quickly switching to a roadie run animation for a split instance, is the speed needed to be obtained to not have this happen & be beneficial. doing this into a wall bounce has different character facing to camera angle side effects and apart from using the roadie run to cancel the complete wall switching animation, you can do this too, and then also go into a wall bounce. you can with melee too and use melee to cancel a wall bounce.
You can do the same thing on alternate and default control scheme’s; but in alternate; you just have to press down enough on X button to register, as compared to letting go from pressing Default’s A button. So, Getting into your initial starting wall transition, will be faster on alternate than it is default, thus faster ‘0-100’ speeds, and you may think that roadie running fast first to wall bouncing is faster on default; but only b/c it’s the same button, &/or b/c the button registration doesn’t work the same now.
You can wall cancel with a different camera angle but what the left stick does or is doing when pressing A is the defining factor that causes the outcome. moving both thumb sticks will make you less likely to roll and acquiring the angles with the camera to get the wall bounce needed in advance is ideal but you can move the camera during bounce along with the left thumb stick as far as you want as long as you don’t mess with the angle into wall before pressing A (b/c you could roll or shorten your transitions [cancel] which is fine & ideal if you do it fast) which is what gives you the direction that A button will give you, so get the angle with the angle all set up or angles you wouldn’t normally get if you didn’t move and hold a thumbstick in a position till your transition successfully happens and at what distance wanted… ending wall transitions with a fast wall cancel to ‘middle alignment’ is always ideal even if possible to reach separated walls no matter how far away; unless there’s not a way to do it or you’re just not able to do it w/your skills. The Stick that moves before or during pressing A is the stick that will get you into that direction, unless your left stick is moving (part of it is b/c left stick is registered faster than right) or has moved in the opposite direction then you’ll roll or go into the other direction or go into the other direction before going into the direction the other stick is towards. If the wall is attainable regardless then the game will register a wall bounce and not a roll. You can press buttons ahead of time that will register afterwards, do this with the A button and you can immediately roll after touching A wall which then can help aide your camera to adjust & change your character into the next wall transitions position. Go up back into the wall and sometimes you can get a animation roll glitch rolling quickly back into it; spinning the camera right after but before finishing the roll can help you get out of roll faster, too. after spinning the camera for a set amount of time in the same direction you get a faster camera speed moving; but once you stop this circle bounce, say like going into a regular bounce, it’ll go back to the regular speed. If separated segments of walls were aligned perfectly for you to circle bounce to maintained the heightened speeds attained by holding the camera over to constantly rotate at that speed reached; well then potentially you could get the most changed character positions to camera angle ratio scenarios.
When your character is facing towards the camera while bouncing forward: I call this the ‘suction bounce’.
Practice tips:
In mercy’s church try to wall bounce, starting from the end middle of the pews to the other side past the segmented half of the 2 pews into the other end of the segmented 2 pews end the fastest you can ending with a Back A shot [YouTube]
Before you do a backwards motion and forward motion on your thumbstick; wall bounce gears of war ultimate edition or 1 style; by touching the wall getting a body bounce off of it into the next wall transition/bounce. Before the up forward or vice versa motion on your thumbstick try going slow to the point your walking. Before the up forward motion on thumbstick, is added to your wall-bounce, again try doing it w/out next to a wall so you either roadie run shift/change directions fast w/little to no animation, or roll which you don’t want to do.
go to wave 50 or 1 on horde in a private match, preferably 1, b/c if you accidently place an outpost or kill yourself the next time you start you want have the wave timer starting for set waves start up; with bots interfering w/you practicing your wall bounce, and w/less starting money also.
when doing a wall-switch animation from cover, cancel it w/roadie run before animation is finished & your taking cover on another wall. next cancel this animation w/a fast back-forward motion on left stick like you would to do A fast roadie run changed directional to cancel the wall switch animation, then do it again but to get into a wall bounce transition to start wall-bouncing from animation cancelation, right afterwards.
ONE MORE IDEAL CRUCUAL TIP: you can get back into, cover fast after shooting by letting go of left trigger, but you can go fastest, if you add a diagonal down ward motion, on left thumbstick, and when your at the edge of a ‘crouched level’ cover moving your left thumbstick into the diagonal your characters facing; you’ll stick out, fast out of the side of that cover before going back into cover. So you’ll go to the side & back behind fast in this case. (sometimes this very thing that pops you from behind cover needs to be held to have less or none of you, exposed to shots from the other side. This quick pop out of the side w/no backing away of cover (slap shot) swings your gun around and more bullets can hit a opponent, because when your ‘popped’ out from the side quick or not your shots are already angled better to get around walls, making the slapshot the best ideal shot to do, and get used to. Sometimes when enough cover is covering you it’s best to do back A shots b/c it can get shots while being protected that slap shot’s couldn’t get.) Ideally You always want to go back into cover fast and out of cover fast which in a sense is the opposite of what I described called the 'Slap Shot". [ YouTube ] Ideally you do both or either or. and you can do something similar all the time by using left trigger, shooting and quickly backing off of cover w/left joy stick, and then off coarse taking cover moving back into it, you can also slap shot by spinning camera from behind to facing opponent (like in circle bouncing) which I don’t recommend, but just know, yes it can happen that way too; And you can do a slapshot from a standing cover or any part of cover; which is why I call this slapshot #2 all though people have been calling it the TJ shot; for the sake of sparing confusion we’ll call it slapshot #2 in the likes of the same name, different number… slapshot 360?.. this type of slapshot works the same way from gears 4, but now you can use a diagonal left stick downward motion, in accordance to when the animation’s timing occurs. that said you can do slapshot 360’s with this motion also, and now shorten the time you pop up out of cover after the fact that you already did, by other means now (since you already popped out of cover though, it can’t be considered a slapshot 360, [the name still works because the first way done or discovered was via a camera rotation inclusion. ] roadie running while in cover attached works, and the same thing that creates a slap shot 360, but with now delayed timing to cause you to pop out of cover, but now faster in cover.
Ideally you only rush someone in a 1v1: if you land shots on them first, you’re not too damaged and they are running away not positioning themselves behind ‘close by cover’. As same goes for you; don’t try to make a far distance away from cover to reach cover. use back A shots with slap shots, because sometimes when there’s enough cover covering you; you can get shots a slap shot can’t. Ideally with public matches w/a bunch of enemies you always want to take a few secs to check your surroundings, w/a fast roadie run changed directional to get fast views. Urgently, eliminate getting yourself in any life or death situations that require a shot you’re bad at and/or rarely get, or just eliminate it entirely. You will get into cover faster if you don’t shoot, before making a transition in reaching cover. Thus urgently know that sometimes in seeking cover you need to not shoot before or at all until you are protected, enough. Urgently Generally speaking in all situations, you need to only go for the ‘stalemates’ to your opponent(s) and trap them, then walk back or stand still and shoot only getting closer to thus trap again, when cover is in the way, or will bein one move, too fast for your shot. Trapping people with stalemates, depends on if your using a long range weapon or short range: short range weapons, while hiding and only being seen when about to get the kill shot works to your advantage, its not as noticeable doing it with long range weapons assuming your using the right weapon; why? because characters shrink in size thus have a smaller hit detection when getting onto a cover piece before shooting you; thus they can have the advantage if they hear you or assume your just around the corner w/ a shotgun that has more bullets land in a bigger arear with 1 shot. With long range weapons it’s different and a few bullet advantage ahead of time is harder for them to counteract. So with long range Weapons; If the Potential trapping areas are well secured, you run to another cover to cross people at a better angle and keep running far and wide within that secured space that is determined by who is where. if they out number you or you don’t know you have a secured space you stay in 1 spot till you do, moving when you potentially don’t or staying in a place that your long range weapon can secure the most space while in cover. For both the long range and short range weapons, it’s best to wait till your behind them/most of them, before you start shooting, and best to trust your teammates and not chase your teammates opponent that they have more potential/space of survival of overcoming; but instead reposition your self to where another opponent could rush and gain advantage over your endangered teammate(s) or yourself and gain the advantage ahead of time for waiting for them in potentially more secured space. And on ‘another note’ and one breath, don’t forget that you can increase sensitivity in settings also. Mines all 30.
